Before you start training a horse there are some important basics to remember.
1. Body Language is Important
Horses seem to be fearful and that is probably because they are guided by instinct and because they are prey animals it may be the reason why they seem reserved, even scared in situations that are new to them.
It is important to watch your body language in these situations, as this will communicate to the horse that your intentions are good.
2. Lead Training
Lead training is very important and any horse should be well mannered when meeting new people. You should train your horse to be able to walk next to you while on a lead and at the same time giving simple commands like stop or turn.
Some horses may not be as easy to train so it is important that you let your horse know who is in control.
3. Warming Up and Cooling Down
Warming up exercises are important and this means both physically and mentally before riding. You may need to do some longeing and other exercises to lay a foundation so that your horse will know what to expect. After training your horse will need to cool down and this will enable the horse to relax his muscles and rest after training.
It is important to remember that a tired horse may be difficult to train and that you make training an enjoyable experience.
4. Be Gentle
Some trainers may think a whip is necessary to control their horse, but being gentle is important to getting your horse to listen to you and a horse that is treated with kindness will not pull back or show hostility. Giving treats is also a way of showing gentleness and as a reward if your horse does well.
Training your horse is the most important thing you do before actually riding. Training will include groundwork and it is important not to take short cuts, especially if you are just starting out.
The first thing to teach your horse is to bend and longe and you can also teach your horse simple commands while longeing before putting on the saddle. Your horse should first be desensitised and aware of your body to avoid being thrown off.
It may take more time that you expected for your horse to warm up to you, and to understand that training a horse is gradual. It is important that your horse is properly tamed and that it is done correctly, just like online bingo bonus, getting the right results may take some time, but they pay off.
5. Be the Leader
Being a leader is essential, your horse needs to know who the leader is and gender is not a factor. Some horses are born leaders and will be dominant and training a horse with these qualities may be more challenging, but you will need to spend extra time showing your horse gently but firmly who is in charge.
Because horses belong to a herd it is natural that they will look for someone to lead them and will look to you as the leader and it is important that you are able to speak to them in a way they understand.
How to Work With an Aggressive Horse
It may be hard to accept, but it’s important to remember that your horse won’t be nice all the time. While it can be a very scary and serious situation, horse owners need to keep in mind that the hooves and teeth are a horse’s weapons and are used by them in the wild for protection.
It may seem like an impossible task, but it’s entirely possible to work successfully with an aggressive horse. Here’s how.
A Behavior Born Out of Fear
An aggressive horse may have developed these behaviours due to mistreatment or simply doesn’t respond to basic natural horsemanship methods and will typically have a strong flight mechanism.
However, you may come across a horse that instead of fleeing will actually fight back and it’s important to remember that this behaviour is borne out of fear. If you don’t know the history of your horse, you may never figure out the root cause of the behaviour, but most horses will not become this way unless mishandled by people.
Equating Humans to Kindness Instead of Harm
If you know your aggressive horse was mistreated by people in the past, the most important part of working with them is to get them to equate humans with kindness instead of harm. We should practise the principles of kindness and trust-building with an aggressive horse just as you would with any other, but it’s also important to keep yourself safe.
When working with an aggressive horse, you need to remain hyper-aware at all times – just like you would with financial betting – and become intensely familiar with the nuances of the horse in order to identify when they’ve had enough and are about to lash out.
Standing Your Ground
In order to be successful, you have to show your aggressive horse absolute kindness while still being firm and flexibility must be handled with care. Many aggressive horses take on the human characteristic of “I win, you lose” in interactions which puts us as humans at a major disadvantage as it’s a physical fight we can never win.
A big horse will use its size to intimidate and it’s important that you stand your ground, but to also choose your ground carefully. Be firm, but also give it a rest when you can tell the horse is seeing red.
Working Successfully with an Aggressive Horse
The following tips are useful when working with an aggressive horse:
- Stand outside of the arena until you are sure that the horse is not going to be aggressive. This could take a few hours or a few months, so patience is imperative.
- Remain constantly present, hyper-vigilant, and look for signs of aggression.
- Keep a good amount of space between you and the horse at all times.
- Learn the triggers of aggression for this particular horse. Does the horse not like eye-contact, being approached while eating, or moved on from behind?
- Look out for a short-fused horse and cease all work before the horse can lash out.
- Practise firm kindness at all times.
The Dos and Don’ts of Greyhound Exercising
While your greyhound will likely spend most of its time lazing about the house, it’s important that they get the opportunity to burn off this conserved energy on a daily basis. While you may look very laidback while indoors, the truth is that a greyhound needs at least 1 hour of exercise daily.
Playing in the yard with your greyhound is perfectly acceptable, but a walk around the neighbourhood or at the dog park will be a lot more mentally and physically stimulating. There are however dos and don’ts for exercising your greyhound.
The Dos of Exercising Your Greyhound
- DO exercise your greyhound for at least 1 hour daily.
- DO walk, run, and play with your greyhound on a daily basis as this will help them bond with you and your family.
- DO check your greyhound’s paws while out for a walk or run. If they start to limp or look uncomfortable, check to see if there are any objects stuck in between the pads of their paws.
- DO work your adult greyhound for 1.5km-3km for the first few weeks and work them up to 4km-8km over time.
- DO walk your greyhound in the early morning or evening.
The Don’ts of Exercising Your Greyhound
- DON’T exercise your greyhound in the heat of the day.
- DON’T become impatient when exercising your greyhound. They have a tendency to stop dead in their tracks if they hear a foreign noise or become nervous. Don’t push them to keep going like you might do when you learn how to play bingo, rather offer verbal encouragement.
- DON’T forget that greyhounds are prone to sunburn as they have very short hair. If you enjoy spending time in the sunshine with your greyhound, make sure to get dog-specific sunblock.
- DON’T forget a washable mat which they can lie on when travelling with your greyhound. Greyhounds are slim and find lying on hard surfaces uncomfortable.
The Dos of Leash Control
- DO use a regular 1.8m leash and keep your greyhound next to your left leg while walking.
- DO offer verbal encouragement and treats when leash and harness training your greyhound.
- DO allow your greyhound enough time to inspect any new areas before turning it loose. Check all perimeters and make sure they are secure.
- DO keep your greyhound leashed when visiting the dog park if it’s full as this will help to prevent any potential injury.
- DO check for mole or groundhog holes if you want to let your dog run. Greyhounds are fast and they can easily break a leg if they hit one of these holes.
The Don’ts of Leash Control
- DON’T get impatient while your greyhound is learning to do its business while leashed.
- DON’T give your greyhound the opportunity to get out of your car or yard without being leashed.
- DON’T allow your greyhound to run on the beach without a leash and harness. Greyhounds are poor swimmers and he/she may run into the water.
- DON’T leave your greyhound unattended near any body of water.
Lastly, DON’T forget to have plenty of fun!
Greyhound Crate Training Tips
Crate training or crating can be somewhat controversial, but many people believe that it’s a healthy option for dog training and can keep a dog safe while they are home alone.
When used correctly there is absolutely nothing wrong with crating your Greyhound, and these tips will help you train your dog to enjoy the time they spend in what could be considered the dog version of a man cave!
A Slow Introduction
The best way to introduce your Greyhound to a crate is slowly. Very slowly and patiently. Forcing a dog inside and locking the door behind them is only going to create fear and cement the idea as a very negative one.
You want crating to be a positive experience from the very start, so go slow.
Get Your Dog used to the Crate
In the beginning the best idea is to leave a crate open, with one of your dogs blanket or beds inside it, and a few treats. You can place the crate in your living area and they can explore while you cook or relax and check out the latest AFL betting odds, so they still feel like part of the family.
Be encouraging and make going in to the crate an enjoyable activity, and soon you’ll see your dog goes in on their own.
Make It Their Safe Space
If a dog doesn’t feel threatened they are more likely to enjoy the time they spend in their crate. Wherever you can, make the crate a positive association.
Whether this means giving them treats when they are inside, or leaving them alone to sleep, you do what your dog likes best.
Feed in the Crate
Giving your dog their meals in the crate will go along way to making them feel happy and content, and assured that the space they are in is safe.
A dog won’t eat if it feels threatened, so putting food in a crate shows them that the space is non-threatening and they wont come to any harm while being in there.
Do Not Leave Them Alone for Too Long
Initially it’s a good idea to limit the amount of time your Greyhound spends in their crate. By nature, these dogs can be quite anxious, so if you see your dog is getting distressed, call them out and reassure them just as how you train with slots guide Canada inorder to get best results.
You may also find that initially they are only happy if they can see you, so don’t go out and lock them in at first as they may hurt themselves trying to get out.
Stop Crating If The Dog Is Unhappy
Some dogs are absolutely fine with being crated from an early age, and the sooner you start training them, the better it is.
If however you find that your Greyhound is starting to hate being crated, is messing in their crate or tearing up their bedding it is best to pause the training and resume at a later date.
Most dogs get used to being crated, and many love it. As long as you take your time and don’t force the issue and you create a routine, you’ll find that crating becomes easy and stress free for everyone.
Guide to Perfect Nutrition for Thoroughbred Foals
Foals are entirely dependent upon their mother’s milk for all nutritional needs up to the age of approximately 5 months old, but their curious natures generally equates to them starting to nibble on grass and feed before they reach weaning age. (more…)
8 Tips to Caring for a Pregnant Broodmare
Caring for a pregnant broodmare is not complicated, but it does require a bit more work and consideration than caring for any other horse.
Following our step-by-step guide should set your mind at ease if your broodmare has never foaled before, but if it any point you’re concerned about your broodmare or her unborn foal, be sure to contact your equine vet immediately.
1. Grazing and Exercise
Your pregnant mare should be housed in a large paddock for grazing and exercise, as this will become her home for the 8.5 months of pregnancy.
Your broodmare should also have constant access to water, shelter, and adequate fencing.
2. Ensuring Proper Growth of the Foal
If your broodmare is not given the appropriate amount of feed, nutrients, and water, the foal may be aborted owing to dehydration.
However, an overweight mare has a higher change of producing a foal with angular leg deformities, so be sure to give your mare light exercise throughout her pregnancy.
3. Vaccination Schedule of Pregnant Mares
Your pregnant broodmare will need to receive the pneumabort vaccination at 5, 7, and 9 months of pregnancy to prevent abortion from rhino. One month prior to the foal’s birth she should dewormed and receive the 5-way spring, rabies, and West Nile vaccinations. Depending on where you live, your broodmare may also require Potomac fever and botulism vaccinations.
4. Appropriate Nutrition
Her feed should consist of forage and foods rich in protein, minerals, and vitamins and a mare of approximately 15 hands should receive 7kg of high quality roughage per day.
It’s not necessary to keep a keen eye on your pregnant broodmare 24 hours a day, but she should be checked daily to ensure that the pregnancy is running smoothly. Don’t worry; you’ll still have time for New Zealand casino bonus games!
5. Feed Proportions
Horse are best described as ‘trickle-feeders’ and should have access to roughage at all times – feed only enough that your pregnant broodmare will eat and walk away.
Try to avoid feeding your pregnant broodmare in the morning and evenings without her having access to anything throughout the day.
If she doesn’t have easy access to pasture, feed her hay in a small-weave net to stretch the feeding time as much as possible.
6. Give Your Broodmare Attention
You should lunge your pregnant broodmare and groom her to ensure good blood flow and circulation. If your broodmare is used to plenty of affection and attention, she is less likely to be aggressive when her foal is born.
Top tip: handling her teats and her underbelly is a good idea as she will be less likely to prevent her foal from feeding if she is used to the sensation.
7. Birthing Preparations
In the last month of pregnancy, move your pregnant broodmare to a smaller yard where she still has freedom of movement, but is more protected.
Her feed should also be increased at this time, but it is not recommended that you add anything new as this could upset her system leading to colic.
8. The Last Stages of Pregnancy
- 2 weeks before birth: her belly will move from a hanging position to a position filling her flank area
- 1 week before birth: her udder may increase in size
- 4 days before birth: the foal will move into the birthing position
- 24-48 hours before birth: the broodmare’s teats will become waxy, the ‘caps’ may fall off and milk may trickle out
Top tip: you will most likely miss the birth of the foal as it usually takes place in the early hours of the morning between midnight and 5am.
How to Choose the Best Collar for Your Greyhound
All domestic animals should wear a collar, whether it is to hold an identification tag, for walks, or simply for decoration – collars come in all shapes and size.
However, if you’ve spent a fair amount of time with greyhounds, you may have noticed that most don’t wear a standard dog collar, but one resembling a thick leather strap.
If you’re considering greyhound adoption, you should consider what kind of collar is appropriate for your new companion.
To Collar or Not to Collar
As greyhounds have elongated necks, a standard dog collar will often slip off or injure the dog if fitted across their windpipe when the greyhound starts pulling on the lead. As such, one of the most important decisions is whether to collar your greyhound when at home.
Many owners fit their greyhounds with loose-fitting collars for wear at home which are slack enough to slip off easily should the collar become hooked on something around the house, while others choose not to collar their greyhounds at all at home.
Whichever you prefer, a collar used for walking must be well-fitted and correctly adjusted to fit snugly on your greyhound’s neck.
A Seamless Size and Fit
Only a properly adjusted collar should be used when walking your greyhound and it should sit higher on the neck than is normally seen in other breeds. Thanks to the greyhound’s large neck and small head, the collar must be a snug fit to prevent your feisty greyhound from getting out of their collar at an inopportune time or dangerous location.
Using a well-fitting colour will put your mind ease and you’ll have more energy for finding top AFL betting tips.
A snug fit can only be achieved by measuring your greyhound’s neck in the area on which the collar will be worn – lower down the neck for a housebound collar and higher up the neck for a walking / running collar.
Sighthound Collars
Sighthound breeds such as greyhounds, whippets, Salukis, Afghan hounds and Italian Greyhounds all have elongated necks and any owner will tell you that they are quite excitable when it comes to the possibility of chasing any kind of prey that has caught their eye.
This could lead to your sighthound lunging on their lead which could injure their necks if they’re fitted with a narrow collar. Sighthound collars are generally made from leather and are wider in the middle and narrower at both ends to accommodate the buckle.
These wider collars are fitted under the dog’s throat and if they are prone to pulling, the sighthound collar will not put pressure on the windpipe or cut off arterial blood flow.
Haltis
If your greyhound has a high prey drive, is prone to pulling, or is dog aggressive, a halti – also referred to as a Gentle Leader – could be the solution to this problem.
Resembling a horse’s halter, one portion of the halti works as a plain buckle collar worn at the top of the neck, while the second part loops around the greyhound’s muzzle, with the leash attaching to a ring at the bottom of the muzzle loop.
If the greyhound starts to pull on the lead, pressure is applied by the halti to the dogs muzzle and the back of their neck and their head is redirected towards you and away from what they are pulling towards. Haltis afford the best possible control over your pulling greyhound, but there will be an adjustment period so be sure to practise online betting at home before heading outdoors with it.
4 Common Health Issues Found in Greyhounds
When it comes to breeds like the Greyhound, many people around the world are adamant on keeping their dog’s offspring as pure as possible, which means that crossbreeding is almost entirely unheard of. While this has become more unpopular in recent years, purebred breeding is still fairly common, especially when it comes to Greyhounds.
Whether you are for or against breeding, there are some factors about pure blood breeding that can’t be denied, and one of these is health. In nature, if an animal has a particular health issue, the only way it can be effectively weaned out of the species is through mixed breeding, where the offspring of the parents sometimes won’t inherit the health issue, instead taking genes from the healthier parent.
This isn’t the case when breeding animals, and as such, health issues tend to remain within a family of animals, and in fact, throughout an entire bloodline.
Whether you’ve adopted a Greyhound after seeing it on eSports betting Australia, or want to participate in breeding yourself, these are some of the more common health issues that affect Greyhounds, especially as they get older.
Cancer
This is one that is especially prevalent among Greyhounds, and it’s also often fatal if not caught early.
The most common type if bone cancer, which has led to the death of many Greyhounds. It’s hard to pick up, but signs to look out for include general weakness, increased hunger but loss of weight, and any growths on their body.
If any of these are noticed, the dog should be taken to the very immediately.
Bloat
This is another one that affects many Greyhounds, and is usually found in medium-sized dogs. It’s a gastrointestinal syndrome that causes their stomach to expand with air, which can in turn cause the stomach to twist in on itself.
It’s an extremely serious condition and can usually kill a dog within a few hours. Symptoms include pacing, restlessness, drooling, pale gums, and signs of pain. Surgery is almost always a necessity, and even then, the dog’s chances of survival are often slim.
One reason bloat is so common is because of how the dogs are fed, which is usually from a bowl that’s on the floor. Raising the bowl up with a small table is advised, and allows the dog to eat at a more natural and healthy level.
Heart Problems
Greyhounds tend to have bigger hearts relative to their size, and because of this, they can develop some heart issues. One of these is a heart murmur, as well as elevated blood pressure.
Heart issues in Greyhounds are sometimes misdiagnosed, and it can require taking the animal to a specialized vet in order to deduce exactly what the problem is.
Ex-Racers
As many Greyhounds that are adopted tend to be ex-racers, they may suffer from problems that originate from a life of racing around the track. As online slots Ireland has to offer, the greyhound racing has drawn significant attention with great effect the animal welfare.
Hip, neck, and joint problems are fairly common, and warrant extra care, especially if the dog tends to be older.
Despite their various health problems, Greyhounds are still loving, sweet animals that have a lot to give their owners, and as long as they’re fed well and have regular check ups, most problems can be avoided.
Taking a Greyhound to the Dog Park
Taking a Greyhound to the park is a great place for them to socialise and to get some exercise especially for dog owners that do not have a yard that is fenced in.
Greyhounds need to walk at least once a day and taking them to the park a few times a week is very beneficial for them.
Greyhounds should not be muzzled at the park if the other dogs are not muzzled. Introducing a Greyhound to the park should be done slowly and allow them to get to know the other dogs before taking them off their leash and so that both dog and owner can also get to know the etiquette of the dog park.
Make a Friend
On the first trip to the dog park it is a good idea to go with a dog that the Greyhound already knows, possibly the neighbour’s dog. The dogs should already be familiar with each other and playing together will make it easier when the Greyhound is introduced to other dogs in the park.
Choosing a quiet time in the park is advisable so that they can get used to being in their surroundings. Much like everything from real money bingo to cooking, taking your Greyhound to the park takes time, practice and patience.
Be Alert
Dog owners should always be alert in the park so they should not take anything with them that can be distracting and they should always keep an eye on their dog as things can happen very suddenly with other dogs and owners around.
Unfortunately not all dog owners adhere to the etiquette so it is also important for dog owners to make sure that others also follow the rules. If things do not go well it may be a good idea to try another park or come back later.
Be Safe and Responsible
Greyhound owners should ensure that their dogs have received all the necessary vaccinations, taking an unvaccinated dog to the park is a recipe for disaster and could infect other dogs in the park.
Owners should also not bring their dog to the park if they are unwell as it may be contagious and bringing a female Greyhound in heat to the park is very irresponsible.
Greyhound owners should not bring their young children with them to the park if they have to supervise them and it is also easy for excitable dogs to knock them over. Owners need to focus all their attention on their dog.
Taking a Greyhound off their leash is not advisable if they have not yet learnt to respond to voice commands, rather keep them close until they are completely familiar with their new surroundings.
For Greyhound owners who own more than one dog, it is advisable to limit the number of dogs. Some dog parks will even have a limit.
When at home the Greyhounds will often form a pack and will bring this with them to the park. This may affect the way that they interact with other dogs and possibly lead to aggressive behaviours.
Greyhounds will feel their owner’s anxiety and owners must be aware of this when letting their dogs socialise. Meeting new dogs, especially in the beginning can be tricky and owners should take it slowly.
If owners know that their Greyhound is sensitive it is best to pick a quiet time in the park when there are fewer dogs.
Being vigilant and attentive are very important to ensure that not only the Greyhound but also the owner enjoy the dog park experience.
The Breed History of The Greyhounds
As one of the world’s most famous dog breeds, the Greyhound has gained massive popularity throughout the world. While they were once famed for their roles as hunters, it wouldn’t be until they found themselves on the racetrack did they gain worldwide popularity.
Fast, sleep, and powerful, Greyhounds have ruled the track for the better part of the last two hundred years, and have been a favourite pastime for those that partake in sports betting, an entire industry of its own.
Before they were the modern racers that we know and love so much, the breed was a companion to mankind thousands of years ago. Historians have found traces of Greyhounds in Ancient civilisations all around the world, and, for the most part, the breed has remained unchanged ever since.
Whether it’s an interest in sports betting, online bingo, or just a simple curiosity for the breed, this is the history of the Greyhound.
Earliest Records
The first of our ancestors to befriend the Greyhound was the Ancient Egyptians. Records have shown that nearly 4000 years ago, the Egyptians had learnt to domesticate the dog, using primarily as a hunting partner, but evidence also suggests that they were loyal pets as well.
Greyhounds were most often associated with the royalty and upper classes of Ancient Egypt, and some mummified Greyhound remains have been found in various Egyptian tombs.
Further down the line in Ancient Greece, the breed was mentioned more than once in Homer’s famous story, The Odyssey. Their predilection as efficient hunting dogs solidified their place at man’s side for the rest of human history.
Greyhounds In The Middle Ages
By the time of the Middle Ages, Greyhounds still featured as popular pets and hunting animals. They could mostly be found among the royalty of the time, and would join them in their hunts, but this wasn’t their only function.
Their association with the upper echelons of society made them a valuable asset for anyone worth their name and money. This is how the breed would remain for the next few centuries.
Industrialisation
It would be around the time that the British first began the age of industry, and the Greyhound still featured prominently among the rich and famous. Their status as a hunter had all but died out, and wealthy businessmen, with plenty of time on their hands, began racing their dogs against each other.
It was friendly at first, and the occasional bet would be made, but for the most part it wasn’t enjoyed on a wide scale.
These same business, however, began to realise the potential of having ordinary people watch and bet on the dog races, and it wasn’t long before their races were made more public, and people were able to take out bets and wagers on their favourite dog.
It was a massive success, and Greyhound racing made its way over the oceans, becoming popular in new countries like Australia and the United States.
Today, Greyhound racing has mostly fallen away, and is line to be banned by most countries around the world. While this has made a lot of people upset, we can still look back at the history of this amazing animal and appreciate just how much it has done for us.